County Overview
Brief History of Summers County
Summers County, West Virginia is seeped in history. To create a complete and comprehensive history of the county would require an entirely different document. This represents only a brief historical overview of the human, historical and geological history of the county. Though this is only a brief overview, Summers County is deeply rooted and very proud of its history.
Human History
Humans have roamed Summers County for at least 15,000 years. Two sites in the region, Richmond Bottoms and Meadow Creek Bottoms, on lowland upper New River terraces yielded surface gathered Clovis Points and Cumberland-fluted lancelot points of the Late Wisconsin glaciation. Hunters likely roamed the New River valley, following large game animals like mammoth, mastodon, giant beaver, giant sloth, and caribou. They also foraged wild plant foods available seasonally. There is ample evidence to suggest that the native people maintained permanent homes in what is now Summers County.1 This was long ago, and there is no written record, but from the circumstantial evidence, we can infer that permanent or semi permanent villages were located at several spots in the county. It is to be remembered that there were several limiting factors as to the length of residence of any tribe in a given location. The natives were primarily hunters, and should game become scarce in an area, they would move on. Even though the hunting was ideal and other factors good, if a stronger tribe decided to move in, the weaker tribe was driven out or annihilated.
Early man’s behavior was strongly influenced by the physical environment. The terrain of Summers County is one of rugged, steep walled ridges and canyons overlaid by the New River Watershed. The setting is one of grandeur, being the product of centuries of sculpting by nature and inhabited by the varied surviving species that comprise today’s biome. The physical setting is the Appalachian Highlands which has been described as the place where “mountain and sky embrace, in clean and enduring intimacy”. The New River and its great gorge dominate the scene, in stark contrast to the rolling upland plateau areas where the skyline is relatively level, a vestige of the ancient peneplain. This restrictive topography has historically acted as a barrier to movement and communication, thus fostering isolation.
The village sites of these native people were usually on a stream which would provide fishing and fertile bottom land on which they grew the maize, squash, and other vegetables. In the report of surveys made in 1948, the Smithsonian Institution states that there were eleven Native village sites in what is now Bluestone Lake. There is also a Native village site near Brooks, as well as several Native burial mounds near Brooks, on Madams Creek, and in Pipestem district. The villages were usually near, but not directly on, a trail. These trails were the highways of those times. Summers County was crossed by some of the major trails leading from east to the west. Among the more famous of these trails is what later became the great James and Kanawha River Turnpike which ran beside Ashby Berkeley’s home (a part of the old Valley Heights Hotel complex) on Valley Heights Road in Pence Springs.
In more recent pre-historic times, the Six nations of the Iroquois claimed jurisdiction over all of West Virginia north of the New River and the Cherokees claimed lands south of the New River. The region in between, including Summers County, was considered a buffer zone and was used sparingly by those groups. Other tribes friendly to the Six Nations were allowed to live here. The first of these tribes was the Delaware who had been driven from their home and, later, the Shawnee. These tribes lived here until they were forced by the encroaching white settlements to move west of the Ohio River. Warriors from a latter tribe, the Shawnee, raided the early white settlements in the area.
White settlers began filtering in during the late 1600s or early 1700s. The year of 1749 saw the organization of the Greenbrier Land Company by a group of prominent Virginians, among them being John Lewis and his sons Thomas and Andrew. This company was given a grant of one hundred thousand acres of the choice land located in what are now Pocahontas, Greenbrier, and Monroe counties and extending to Wolf Creek in what is now Summers County. Other land companies followed which continued to increase the number of white settlers in the region. The settlers generally took to the bottom lands along the rivers and the mountain valleys where the Native trails were located. Because the pioneers were on these trails, it was inevitable that the settlers and the Native tribes would clash. Forts were erected in different parts of the county to protect the white settlers from the Natives. These fort sites are well noted in the region.
The earliest settlements made in what is now Summers County for this period was that by James Graham about 1770 at Lowell and soon thereafter by Robert Lilly and his sons on Little Bluestone. The historic Graham House in Lowell (hewn log home still on its original site) survived several Native American attacks and still hosts several special events each year. The attack in 1778 on Fort Donnally in Greenbrier County brought to an end the major attacks on the settlements in this area.
During the era of peace which followed, numerous small settlements began to flourish. One post office sprung up in Lewisburg (now Greenbrier County) in the late 1790s that served the whole region. It was also in this period that the James River and Kanawha Turnpike was constructed. As the years went by, other roads were built with the Blue Sulphur Turnpike and the Giles, Fayette, and Kanawha Turnpikes serving what is now Summers County. Population in the region continued to grow at a slow, but steady pace over the next few decades.
The Civil War and the subsequent birth of our state found the territory now embraced in Summers County. This mountainous region was little affected during the Civil War by marching armies and engagements within its borders. However, the village of Jumping Branch was burned by the retreating Federals to prevent it falling into the hands of the Confederates. In this most early part of West Virginia history, the area now known as Summers County, had three post offices. The first post office was established in 1853 in Jumping Branch. The others were in the Rollynsburg/Talcott area and the area now known as Sandstone.
Following the Civil War, railroad builder Collis Potter Huntington partnered with General William C. Wickham and others to acquire the Virginia Central Railway. The group acquired a charter from the West Virginia legislature and the railroad was renamed the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad. Plans were made to extend the line to the Ohio River where Huntington, West Virginia is now located. By 1868, the line had been extended from Richmond to White Sulphur Springs under the direction of Colonel T.M.R. Talcott. The plan to extend the railroad westward required the construction of the Great Bend Tunnel in Talcott (named for Col. Talcott), constructed under the direction of William R. Johnson, a contractor from Staunton, Virginia.
This tunnel was the setting for the former slave John Henry’s legendary battle with a steam drill. While many places claim to be the site of John Henry’s legendary battle, the preponderance of evidence is on the side of Summers County. Local historians cite testimony confirming the event by Great Bend Tunnel workers Sylvester Adams and Banks Terry. Terry, who spent the remainder of his life at Talcott, often spoke of the battle between man and machine. The Great Bend Tunnel was opened for use on January 1, 1872.
The management of the C&O Railroad wanted to create a re-fueling and repair shop at the confluence of the Greenbrier and New Rivers. The leadership of the C&O also wanted to control the local politics of the area, so it approached the State Legislature and proposed the creation of a new county. On February 27, 1871 the legislature of West Virginia enacted the bill creating Summers County from parts of Greenbrier, Fayette, Mercer, and Monroe counties. The county was named for George W. Summers (1807-1868), a noted jurist and legislator. The C&O Railroad agreed to donate the lot on which the present Courthouse stands in Hinton in 1876.
Hinton, the only presently incorporated municipality in Summers County, grew from the infrastructure established by the C&O railroad. The town thrived on the business brought by the railroaders, many of whom settled in Summers County. The city’s National Historic District (established in 1984) centers on the old business district whose existence is linked with the arrival of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad Company in 1873. The next fifty-five years represent a period of great prosperity for Hinton.
Hinton was incorporated in 1880 with W.R. Benedict serving three consecutive terms as its mayor. In its first few years as a city, Hinton saw the development of a city hall, a jail, and a municipal water system. The C&O Railroad shops were completed on August 1, 1892 and consisted of a roundhouse with 17 engine stalls and a car repair shop which could hold 40 cars. The roundhouse employed 370 men and the car shop 170 men. The salaries paid to these workers contributed $84,000.00 annually to the local economy. This was significant money in 1892. The C&O also established one of the first YMCA’s in Hinton for the railroad men, in 1891. Three theatres operated in Hinton in those years and much cultural activity was available in the form of live entertainment and early movies. The building boom that began with the arrival of the railroad lasted until 1930. Many architecturally significant buildings were constructed in Hinton during this growth period. Architectural styles represented in the historical district include Victorian, Queen Anne, Gothic, Classical, Greek, American Four Square and Second Empire.
Just as Summers County’s growth centered on the railroad, its history over the past half-century is tied to the decline of the railroad’s impact on the region. As the railroad moved from coal fired engines to diesel power, there was no longer a need to stop and refuel in Hinton and the town began to decline. The introduction of the diesel engine in the early 1950s marked the beginning of this decline. During this period, the railroad closed its repair shops in Hinton and eliminated or transferred numerous administrative and dispatching jobs to new regional centers. As a result, Summers County’s economy and overall community vitality began to spiral downward with the loss of railroad jobs leading to a steady loss of retail establishments over the years. The loss of commercial and retail jobs was further frustrated by the opening of several large box-stores in neighboring counties in the 1990s. The declining population led to the closure or consolidation of several Summers County schools.
Summers County’s history in the 21st century is rooted in change and optimism as the area begins a transition into today’s knowledge economy. The Hinton Technology Center which opened in 2005 is the focus of this transition as it is the base for national defense contractor and other technology-based firms. Summers County boosts many technology-based companies which provide over 150 well-paying jobs in the community.
Today, Hinton is a picturesque railroad town located on the New River in Summers County. Though there is much evidence of the hey-day of Hinton in many of the old buildings, the economics of the area have only just begun to find new footing in technology, tourism and retirees.
ii. Historic Land Uses of Summers County
European settlers land use in Summers County began with fur trappers during the 1750’s, and actual settlements begin to appear in about the same time frame with the founding of the Greenbrier Land Company. During this early phase of European settlement, survival was contingent on hunting-gathering and subsistence agriculture on a limited scale. By the time of the Revolutionary War in the 1770’s small farms had emerged with an ever increasing focus on agricultural and animal husbandry to make a living, though at that time what is today Summers County was only sparsely settled/populated.
Following the Revolutionary War, many settlers, moved to what is now Summers County because our newly formed federal government often paid soldiers in land grants in lieu of currency for their services in the war. Farms were hacked out of the wilderness, especially along food-plains, which had the best soil. Farmers and settlers also found that life in the river valleys provided additional food resources from riparian flora and fauna. Most of these early settlements and farms were small subsistence operations. When the railroad pushed through, farmers suddenly could transport their agricultural and animal products to distant markets.
Despite the convenience of rail transportation, many farms remained small, subsistence operations. However, there were two larger plantation-style operations on either side of New River. One, the Billy Crump Plantation, utilized approximately 133 slaves, and was located on west side of the New River in what is now Raleigh County. The other plantation was located on the east side of New River near the Mouth of Indian Creek owned by Dr. Fowler. These two plantation operations, of course prior to the Civil War, were very large comparable to most small land holdings in the county. Following World War II, many farmers sold or abandoned their farms, because the farms had become less unprofitable and because many of there sons had left to join the military. Many of these farmers subsequently found employment on the railroad or simply left for more urban areas. However, some farmers attempted to hold onto their farms a secondary source of income as a means of holding onto their heritage. It should be noted that during the early 1900’s to 1970’s there existed numerous prosperous dairies, but with the advent of “Milk Producer Laws and Regulations,” the industry has virtually died in our county.
Due to the railroad, timbering also became a prime source of revenue for many people. The railroad allowed landowners and timber-brokers to transport timber, lumber, tanning bark, cross-ties, and other wood products to distant markets. Though nestled in the heart of Appalachia, Summers County did not experience much coal mining, however, there were a few small mining operations in northern Summers County during the early to mid-1950’s. However, these mines eventually became unprofitable and closed.
For many years, farming, lumber and the railroad were the dominant features on the landscape of Summers County. Many communities and towns sprung up to accommodate the necessary commerce associated with each of these industries. As the agriculture and timbering commodities slowed and the railroad no longer needed Hinton as a re-fueling stop, many of the towns began to dwindle. However, the essence of these communities remains as a feature on the landscape of Summers County.
iii. Natural History
Summers County is blessed with two outstanding natural resources—water and a naturally beautiful pristine environment. All of Summers County physically falls into that province of the Appalachian Mountains known as the Allegheny Plateau. The Allegheny Plateau region consists of at least two ancient peneplains sloping gently northwestward. The strata of the peneplains are gently warped and the surface of them has now been cut into innumerable valleys by the erosion of streams leaving sharp or comparatively narrow ridges as remnants of the former peneplains. During the Cenozoic times, the development of two erosion terraces occurred, the younger surface, the Allegheny Peneplain, occurs at an elevation of 792.48MSL near Hinton, West Virginia.
The New River is the major natural feature of the Hinton and Summers County area. The New River is one of the world’s oldest rivers and is a remnant of the ancient Teays River System. From quiet beginnings in North Carolina, the New River travels through Virginia and its tumbling waters eventually carved a gorge through the steep mountains of southern West Virginia. In recognition of its uniqueness and beauty, the Federal Government, in 1978, designated a 52 mile stretch from Hinton to Fayette Station in Fayette County as the New River Gorge National River, a division of the National Park Service. Similarly, the Bluestone River as it flows into Summers County has been dedicated as a National Scenic. These divisions of the National Park Service have become a major economic factor in the area. Hinton is the southern gateway community for these National Park Service areas1.
Summers County also hosts a third riparian feature, the last several miles of the Greenbrier River. The Greenbrier enters the eastern part of the county in Alderson and flows through Pence Springs and Talcott before its confluence with the New River near the communities of Bellepoint and Avis in Hinton. Though the Greenbrier River has not received a specific federal or state designation, it is one of the longest, free-flowing rivers in the eastern United States. Locally, it is recognized for its scenery, recreation and as a major factor in the environmental and geo-physical landscape. However, without proper management, the Greenbrier is at risk for pollution from sewage, improper development, and inadequate land management techniques.
Hinton is located at the confluence of the Greenbrier River with the New River, just north of the Bluestone River. The Bluestone Reservoir Project was authorized for construction as a flood control and hydroelectric power project in September 1935. Construction did not begin until January 1942 and was suspended briefly by World War II before resuming in January 1946. The Bluestone Dam became operational in January 1949. The Bluestone Lake created by the dam varies from 1,800 acres of surface area in winter to 1,970 acres during the summer and fall. Efforts continue to finish the hydroelectric portion of the dam which was not completed during its initial construction. The dam is currently managed by US Army Corps of Engineers. The un-developed area above the dam is recognized for its majestic views and outstanding recreational opportunities. This area, known as Bluestone Wildlife Management Area, consists of nearly 17,000 acres and is managed by West Virginia Department of Natural Resources but owned by the Army Corp of Engineers.
Summers County boasts the presence of two state parks. Bluestone State Park was created in 1955 when the West Virginia State Conservation Commission, now the Department of Natural Resources, leased 4,500 acres from the Army Corps of Engineers in the Bluestone Reservoir area for the park. Similarly, Pipestem State Park was created in 1963 and officially opened in 1970 as a result of the federal government’s financial assistance to West Virginia to promote economic development in areas of low employment.2 Legend has it that John Kennedy was so grateful to West Virginians, having won a lot of support during the elections, that he saw to it that Pipestem State Park was funded. Together, these parks take advantage of the priceless beauty of the Bluestone Gorge area, offering scenic vistas and recreational opportunities for tourists while providing a significant economic benefit to Summers County.
The New River Parkway, a government initiative which started in the 1980's, was touted as a project to improve a current road, known locally as River Road, and build a scenic highway from I-64 near Sandstone, West Virginia to Hinton, WV.3 The New River Parkway will provide a direct link between Interstates 64 and 77 in Princeton and allow visitors to have easy access to the magnificent Sandstone Falls. Eight miles of the parkway will pass through the New River Gorge National River. This parkway will tie together many outstanding resources of Raleigh, Summers, and Mercer Counties. With the completion of the Parkway, Hinton’s importance as a gateway community to the New River will be greatly increased. Amtrak also provides an important transportation link to Summers County. Amtrak’s Cardinal from New York to Chicago stops three times per week to pick up and disembark passengers at Hinton’s historic Rail Depot.
Scenic and natural resources, such as the Bluestone, Greenbrier, and New Rivers and Bluestone Dam and Lake, along with their respective supporting agencies (National Park Service, US Army Corp of Engineers, West Virginia Department of Natural Resources and West Virginia State Park systems) are no doubt outstanding resources and visitor attractions. They provide significant potential for additional economic development in Hinton and Summers County. Hinton, with its central location, complements these park areas as it provides a number of restaurants, hotels, and shopping opportunities along with its provision of medical and other public services.
Taking advantage of Summers County’s assets requires viewing the existing historical, cultural, and natural resources as opportunities. Entrepreneurial activity can flourish to complement these assets if they are sensitive to resource values. New commerce can be drawn to the Hinton area to capitalize on the attractions for visitors and tourists. Revitalization requires the concerted, imaginative efforts of the public and private sectors alike.
References Cited
1. Lively, Lester. History of Summers County.
2. http://www.wvcommerce.org/travel/thingstodo/history/stateparklodges/default.aspx
1:30 p.m. on 02/19/10.
3. http://www.newriverfriends.org/. 1:45 p.m. on 02/19/10.
1 Recently, many local citizens and both the Summers County Commission and the City Council of Hinton, have requested that the federal government expand the boundaried of the New River Gorge National River to include Hinton’s Historic District, Bateau Beach (aka Hinton Landing), Avis Overhead Bridge, and the point where the New and Greenbrier Rivers meet.
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